Travelling with baby

Last month, we took a two week whirlwind tour of Canada. We crammed in a wedding, a 90th birthday, lots of visiting, and of course, introducing our wee man to the rest of the family. From Vancouver, British Columbia, to Kingston, Ontario, all the way up to the Yukon, we managed to cram in an unbelievable amount of visiting in the two weeks Stephen got off from school (we are now enjoying the school holidays and recuperating from our travel). While there are many great stories from each specific visit, I wanted to do a wee survey of how we successfully (read: no screaming by Hector or us) navigated our various modes of transportation - plane, train, automobile, and boat, to name but a few.

For a start, we booked our long overseas flight from NZ to Canada at night. This meant that we did our normal-ish bedtime routine in the airport lounge, boarded the plane and Hector went straight to sleep. Although we booked the bassinet seat, H-man did not like sleeping in it, but with the extra leg room, I was much more comfortable holding him the whole time.

On flights when he didn't sleep, we took it in turns to coral him up and down the aisle - making friends with many a passenger and many of the flight attendants (always try to use their first names, it's such an easy thing to do and so immensely meaningful). Breastfeeding him on take off and landing helped so much. Not continuously, but whenever he got a bit whiny (which I took to be weird feeling in the ears whiny). We were indeed lucky to earn the compliments of our surrounding passengers as to Hectors' quietness.

Once in Canada, we had planned to drive as little as possible, so we brought Hector's regular mountain buggy. I considered taking a smaller umbrella stroller, but the comfort of the reclining buggy meant that Hector could easily take the odd nap on the go so we could get more travelling done. Also, remember to bring your rain cover,you may not have family on the other end with an extra.

When we did drive, we rented a car seat along with the car. This meant we didn't have to lug one around and that we knew it was approved by the government safety people. We tried to do as little driving as possible, as it is our least favorite mode of transportation, but when we did, we were sure to have lots of toys and snacks available for all. And we made many stops to ensure bladders were not over stretched and legs were not under stretched.

We also did a little bit of bus travel in Vancouver. This was fun and easy.

Boats made an appearance as well. The only word of warning here is to hold onto your (and your childs') hat. We lost Hector's sun hat on our last trip over when a random gust of wind whipped it off his head - much to his delight.

Trains - our favorite mode of transport on this trip. We took the train from Kingston back to Toronto to avoid holiday traffic (and being in a car) and it was fun. We could watch the countryside rumble by, play with Hector up front in the luggage area where there was empty space, and generally, spread out. We even got cool paper train cars to take home and build.

 

Napping with mom and playing with dad. Good times were had by all.

Finally, we made sure to take time as a family to just relax. It was an intense trip and there are things we didn't get done, but we took time to just slow down and be together and this meant we didn't loose our sanity.
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Please Note: Stephen says I have made it sound like Hector didn't cry. He did. And the thing that got us through those rough patches was the idea that parenting while travelling is not about being good or bad parents, but simply surviving. If holding him while he slept is what he wanted, then by golly, that's what happened. If running up and down the aisle of the plane kept him quiet, then, hey, that's what we did (even the flight attendants believed this). Holidays are all about having a good time, including the little ones, so we just went with what made him happy - then we were all happy.

Banks Peninsula Track

On April 12th, I picked up Stephen's mom at the airport. She was here for a quick two week visit and we were cramming in as much fun stuff as possible. For the first few days, while Stephen finished up his teaching before the term break, we stayed around Christchurch, exploring our new neighbourhood, sharing our earthquake experiences (and visit to our old place) and walks along the river. On Saturday, with our hiking bags packed we headed for the hills, to experience the Banks Peninsula Track.

The private organization that runs the track is made up of local farmers, conservationists and other landholders along the route. There is a strict limit to the numbers of people who can start the track each day, as there are only so many beds. So, we all met up in front of the information centre in Akaroa Friday night and clambered onto the bus that would take us out to the first hut at Onuku Bay.

The first night, we walked the 5 minutes from the bus to the hut, made up a quick dinner and crashed into bed. While Jan slept inside, Stephen and I opted to try one of the 'stargazer' huts dotted

in the neighbouring paddock. With a plexiglass used for the top third of the ceiling, one presumes on a clear night the stars would be visible from bed. Unfortunately, we were clouded in and so could not enjoy the stars as such. However, we were treated to strange bugling in the middle of the night from around the bay below us.

The following day, under the heavy shroud of mist and fog, we pulled on all our wet weather gear and made for the next bay. Despite the dampness of the air, it wasn't too cold and with the large climb we had, there was no trouble keeping warm. So, onwards we marched, through the wet grass and slippery mud.

Once we'd reached the summit of our climb for the day, we were treated to a lovely sign indicating which way to look for the view. After taking a moment to enjoy, we shuffled on back

down into the valley below. Which despite the seemingly suffocating mist simply sparkled with the diamond drops of rain and dew, giving us the surreal experience of walking through West Coast rain forest here on the East coast. Huge tree ferns shook gently as each drop of rain hit it, the red barked New Zealand fushia slowly shed its bark in long swirling strands of paper and the countless numbers of fantails followed us along seeming to escort us along our path, all the while scooping all any bugs we happened to disturb. Eventually

though, we emerged back into the farmed landscape of grass and gorse, with the promise of a dry bed at the distant end of the valley. . .Flea Bay.

We arrived, soaked to the core and shed our outer layers to hang by the fire. Back into dry clothes, we cooked up some late lunch and curled up on the comfy couch to read. People slowly trickled in and the lines in front of the living room fire filled with socks, shirts, and trousers. It was a cosy, if damp, cottage, but we all shared the space we had and games of cards soon started with ferocity.

The next morning we were woken early by the landowner who was just about to feed the

straggling Little Penguins as they fattened up for their winter at sea. Everyone trundled outside and around the corner to find a couple of still molting penguins waiting anxiously for some fish. With the feeding out of the way, our hostess told us that there were gusts of 55 knots expected for the day and if we were to stay around until lunchtime, we might catch a ride around to the next bay. The wind had certainly seemed a bit more bitey that morning.

We all went back to the cottage to see what the wind would do and decide whether a walk or a ride would be the way to go. After another hour of reading and relaxing, Stephen and I decided we wanted to walk and headed off up the track. Wow, was it windy. And more than a little high up at some points. We quickly adopted a technique of diving for the ground when a particularly large gust came along. It seemed the better alternative to being pushed over a cliff. The flip side of all this was having help with all the up hills. Just by opening your jacket and leaning back into the wind, you would be pushed, quite quickly, up the hill. Once on top of course, you would drop your jacket and stay well away from any edges.

Eventually, we reached Stony Bay, our next stop. And what a place. It reminded me of the fairy towns I used to imagine as a kid. With tiny cottages dotted throughout a clearing with several pear, apple and fig trees heavy with fruit. A shower house carved into an ancient tree and a fire

heated bath tucked away into a secluded shroud of ferns and trees. After dropping our bags into one of the two person hide-aways, I filled the tub and started a fire. This is what I had been looking forward to for a while now, since hearing about it from my parents on their foray down these shores. As the others finally arrived (they had decided to walk, but their bags were driven over), the bath reached completion and I sank into the warm waters with a glass of wine and just relaxed. No sore muscles here.

The following day, after a lovely night, we packed our things again and hit the trail. Off to our last bay, Otanerito. It was a beautiful hike, no dense fog restricting our views and not huge winds threatening to toss us off the sides of the cliffs. We wandered around the headlands, admiring the sea, the sky and the land around us. Finally, dropping through a dense thicket of Kanuka filled with Bellbirds, we arrived at the last hut - the old farmhouse for Otanerito Bay.

Arriving at about noon, we had lots of time for naps, lunch and even a short trek into the neighboring natural forest preserve of Hinewai. We wandered down the beach, watching seals and Oystercatchers, picking up the random bits of humaness that had floated in on the tide. And after a tasty dinner, we whiled away the hours playing Pictionnary and reading about Hinewai.

The next day, our final day, took us up through Hinewai. Through stands of regenerating native forest, from Kanuka to Totara and the surprising non-native gorse, that served as a nursery for young natives. We eventually came out at the top, and wandered over to the saddle and down back into Akaroa. We collected our bags (carried over for those who wished) and enjoyed a lovely cup of tea before heading home.

Kayaking Stewart Island

After spending the evening wandering the village of Oban in gale force winds, we snuggled into our beds and wished for calm winds the next day. We were lucky enough to get our wish, so we headed over the hill to Watercress Bay and found someone with boats.

[Watercress Bay in the sunshine]

[Kayaks for rent]

[Getting all geared up]

Once we were all set up with boats and paddles and maps and stuff, we pushed out into the calm waters of Paterson Inlet. We paddled up the inlet to a spot where our kayak outfitter had suggested we might find some penguins. After a good half hour paddle we were rewarded not only with some Little Blue penguins looking for lunch, but a rare Yellow-Eye.

[Yellow-Eyed penguin]

We watched him paddle around, checking under water every so often to find a fish and then dive. We paddled on along the bushy coast towards a slew of little beaches tucked away from the waves and pulled out on one of them. With our lunch in hand, we settled on some rocks and enjoyed the lovely weather.

[Lunch on the rocks]

After lunch, we pushed back out to a somewhat choppier sea. Within a few minutes though we had found our rhythm and decided to head on over to Ulva Island, a nearby, predator free island which promises some unique bird viewing opportunities.

[The Weka Welcoming Committee]

Upon our arrival we were met by the Weka Welcoming committee. These forward and very cheeky little birds surprised Stephen by stealing a cracker from his hand. The momma bird then proceeded to bash it on the ground with her bill to break it into bite-sized pieces for her wee (or not so wee) chick. As we are not great believers in feeding wildlife from our hands (though it seems a little late here), Stephen removed what was left of the cracker from the birds and placed it in a location he thought safe from roving Wekas - out on the back of the kayak, which was still in the water. This proved not to be the case.

For, just as Stephen left, the momma bird walked straight out into the sea, jumped onto the boat and promptly found the remainders of her prize. She and her chick then ran to the other end of the beach to do away with their winnings in a less bothersome location. We all laughed.

The rest of the islands bird residents proved far less cheeky. We wandered along a bit of the trails and found kereru, or New Zealand wood pigeon, and Stewart Island robins, as well as, a few more Wekas. The restoration of Ulva Island to a predator-free island began in the late 90's and took some seven years, with thorough trapping of rats, stoats, and weasels. Unfortunately, when we were leaving there was rumour that some 20 or so rats had been seen on the island. So, more trapping will have to be done once again. However, in our short time there, it was amazing to just listen to the difference. The bird song variety and sheer amount was like nothing I've heard elsewhere in New Zealand.

We then paddled back across the inlet and left our kayaks for the road. While Stephen and Ben spent the afternoon hitting golf balls at the second most Southerly golf course in the world, I wandered through town, window shopped and went through the exhibit at the DOC office. In the evening, Stephen and I went for a wander to the point and watched some Little Blue penguins scramble ashore and up very steep cliffs. We decided we could only handle watching one as the stress involved in watching a small, water-built bird climb a near vertical slippery slope in the dark is not easy on the heart. So we wandered back to the hostel and climbed into bed for one last night on Stewart Island.

[Sunset over Oban]

The next morning, we packed our things and got on the ferry back to Bluff. The wind had remained calm-ish and the trip back was much easier to take than the one there. We were even treated to watching flocks of Titi, or Muttonbirds, or Sooty Shearwaters as we passed through the small islands where Maori still go to collect the chicks in the summer.

Stewart Island

After our outing to Castle Rock and Cave Stream, we were eager to get further away and see some of the country we hadn't yet visited. So, after some planning, a little shopping, and a wee bit of packing we hopped in the car and drove South. We were heading to Bluff at the bottom of the South Island where we would jump onto a ferry and finish off on Stewart Island - otherwise known as, Te Punga o Te Waka a Maui (the anchor stone of Maui's Canoe), which links to the creation story of New Zealand, or more commonly as, Rakiura (the great and deep blushing of Te Rakitamau) for a Maori chieftain who is now seen as the sunrise and sunsets and aurora australis (southern lights). It is a place well-known for being one of the last vestiges of New Zealand native bush and birds, a great place to catch a glimpse of the infamous kiwi. The photos here are an assortment from our trip there and all the splendorous things we saw there. Hope you enjoy!

[Waiting for the ferry in Bluff]

[Bluff is one of the largest ports in New Zealand]

[Halfmoon Bay, Oban - Oban is the only town on Stewart Island]

[Oban]

[Oban waterfront]

[Chess on the beach]

[Territorial Oyster Catchers]

[Golden Bay - where our shuttle left from to take us up to Freshwater Hut]

[Driving through Paterson Inlet and up the river]

[Going up the Freshwater River]

[A load of trampers waiting to board the shuttle heading back to Oban]

[The Freshwater River - reminded me of a jungle river with dense forest to the waters edge]

[Leaving Freshwater Hut]

[Native New Zealand bush]

[Our favorite DOC bridges and hiking up Rocky Mountain]

[Our first kiwi!]

[The top of Rocky Mountain]

[Native forest with ferns galore, rata trees and lots more]

[Much of Stewart Island is made of muck]

[But the hiking is still fantastic]

[A friendly little Stewart Island robin]

[Happy people are more fun]

[Almost there]

[Finally arrived - escaping the sand flies with some inside time]

[Masons Bay]

[Exploring the beach]

[Little Blue penguin]

[Sand dunes]

[Walking back through the Chocolate Swamp - all the little white things are spider nests]

[Trail types]

[Yet another friendly visitor]

[Our ride returned and we were taken back to Oban]

[Through big waves and heavy wind]

We tucked into a hostel that night and hoped for good weather the next day so we could go kayaking.